Day 1-2: Friday-Saturday, October 4th/5th- Departure to Delhi
The adventure began in the early hours of Friday, October 4th. My alarm jolted me awake, and by 2:30 a.m., my Uber was scheduled to arrive. It was actually a bit early, and I found myself at the airport by 2:45 a.m.. The airport was eerily quiet, with only cleaning staff and a few other early travelers around. My flight to Delhi was at 5:00 a.m., but check-in hadn't even opened by 3:45 a.m.. It turned out I needed a manual visa verification for India, which caused a bit of initial anxiety about my bag making the flight. Thankfully, the self-check-in eventually triggered the visa verification, and I got my bag tag. The bag drop line was initially long, but a second counter opened up, speeding things along. Boarding was smooth, and I arrived in Chicago O'Hare without any issues.
In Chicago, I landed at Terminal 1, home to the Polaris Lounge. My connecting flight, Air India 126 to Delhi, was departing from either Terminal 2 or 5. After spending some time working and having breakfast in the lounge, I discovered around 10:45 a.m. that I was in the wrong terminal. A frantic tram ride followed, and a call from Air India informed me that boarding had already begun. Security was quick despite my lack of TSA PreCheck, and a brief passport scare added to the pre-flight excitement. I made it to the gate just as the last passenger. The Air India plane was quite old, perhaps from the 1980s, and the long seat made meal times a bit awkward. An interesting older lady with a Fendi sweater and pink hair sat next to me, adding a bit of character to the flight. We landed in Delhi on time, and the advantage of flying at the front meant a personal helper guided me through customs. My bag was delayed, but eventually, I met Neerav's driver, Dinesh and arrived at his house. A delicious chicken sandwich prepared by Neerav's staff awaited me, and we spent the evening resting and packing for Nepal.
Day 3: Sunday, October 6th - Arrival in Kathmandu and Meeting the Team
We arrived at the hotel in Kathmandu without any problems. There, I met up with Manoj Suvarna and Sabine, our main guide, as well as Anil, the assistant guide. Sabine outlined our trip, mentioning that we would depart on Monday, October 8th, at 4:45 a.m.. We decided to stay at the Marriott Fairfield, where we were already checked in, saving us $170 as the second night was covered. We needed to arrange accommodation for the night of the 7th and our return on October 16th. Sabine mentioned there were about eight or nine people on the tour in total and highlighted the need for a day bag for the plane and the Himalayan Wonder duffel bag for the rest of our gear. The trek to base camp would be about 8 days, plus a couple of days for acclimatization. That evening, I connected with SA from Echoin via WhatsApp, and he joined us for dinner at Bojan Griha, a traditional Takali restaurant. The taxi fare was around 300 NPR. Sabine's father recommended this place to experience Nepali food and culture. It was a set menu with traditional Nepalese songs and dances, a truly lovely introduction to Nepal. We enjoyed the evening and walked back to the hotel, getting to bed by 11:00 p.m.
Day 4: Monday, October 7th - Exploring Kathmandu
I started the day with a quick workout in the hotel gym, taking advantage of the Wi-Fi to use a Peloton program. After a breakfast of dosa and omelette with Manoj Suvarna, we planned a taxi trip to Pashupatinath and then Boudhanath Stupa in Laitpur (Patan Durbar Square). We were dropped off at the entrance of Pashupatinath, and after checking in our shoes (thankfully I was wearing sandals!), I had a rather unpleasant encounter stepping in animal droppings. At the temple entrance, Neerav and Manoj were allowed to pass after showing their Indian driver's licenses, but I was stopped as I didn't appear Hindu and hadn't brought my passport. Despite my attempts to explain where I was from, the security guard was hesitant. Eventually, perhaps out of frustration, he moved aside, and we managed to enter the temple from a side entrance. We offered a prayer, and I received another rudraksha garland. We then explored a maze with 520 lingas, which Manoj Suvarna mentioned could bring luck if you touched them all. As we left, I noticed red gungu on my fingers and, due to sweating, inadvertently smeared the tika on my forehead while wiping my brow. We cleaned up and then enjoyed a snack and tea overlooking Durbar Square. We hired a guide who showed us around the square.
Day 5: Tuesday, October 8th - Flying to Lukla and Trekking to Phakding
An early start again, meeting in the lobby at 4:50 a.m. for our 4:45 a.m. departure to the airport. There was some initial confusion about baggage allowance, but we decided to address any issues at the airport. We received a nice to-go breakfast before finally being picked up around 5:30 a.m. after a call from Manoj Suvarna to Pemba, the main guide. After picking up another couple, we rushed to the airport where Sabine expedited our security and check-in. Six of us managed to get on the next flight. The visibility was incredible, offering stunning views of the mountains above the clouds. We landed smoothly in Lukla, and I even captured a video from the pilot's windshield. We had tea at a hotel near the airport, dropped off our bags, and soon after, the porters left, and we began our trek. The trek from Lukla to Phakding was beautiful and relatively easy, mostly downhill. We arrived around 11:00 a.m. or 11:30 a.m., having walked 4.8 miles in about 2 hours and 50 minutes. We had dal bhat for dinner. Sabine noted that while there were many flights on Monday (October 7th) with around 700 people arriving on 53 flights, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday were expected to have fewer flights, which was good news for potential crowds.
Day 6: Wednesday, October 9th - Trekking to Namche Bazaar
We had breakfast at 7:00 a.m. and started our trek around 8:00 a.m.. The initial plan was a 7-hour, 12 km trek with a lunch stop in Mjo around 10:30 a.m.. However, as we were making good time, Sabine decided we would go further to Torseline. We saw some interesting sights, including a bungee jump, and the trail involved a consistent climb of stairs. After lunch, the trail was consistently uphill. We crossed several bridges over the Dudh Koshi River, about four crossings in total. The final crossing featured a prominent bungee jump. We continued uphill until we finally reached Namche Bazaar. The town's appearance as we approached, with colorful stupas and prayer wheels powered by a mountain stream, reminded me of an amusement park. We took some photos and walked through the bustling town, which seemed to have everything from outfitters and restaurants to ATMs. Climbing through the town, we could see the various services catering to both locals and tourists. We stayed at the Hotel Namche Bazaar Guest House, which was old but comfortable. I slept well and took advantage of the hot water to do some laundry.
Day 7: Thursday, October 10th - Acclimatization Hike around Namche Bazaar
Our plan for today was an acclimatization day hike around Namche Bazaar, starting with breakfast at 7:30 a.m. and departure at 8:00 a.m.. We aimed to visit the Sagarmāthā National Park Museum and Everest viewpoint, followed by a hike to the Sherpa Panorama Hotel. The hike to the National Park was pleasant, and Sabine wanted to get there early for better views before the clouds rolled in. We were rewarded with good views of Damur and Kusum Kanguru and glimpses of Everest (also known as Sagarmāthā and Chomolungma), as well as other mountains like Kangtega, Tambuche, Mount Everest, Lhotse, and the distinctive Ama Dablam. We caught a quick glimpse of Everest before it was obscured by clouds.
Day 8: Friday, October 11th - Trekking to Tengboche
I woke up around 5:00 a.m., not having slept particularly well, but I felt ready to continue. Thankfully, the restroom was accessible. I had an American breakfast of roti, fried eggs, baked beans, and potatoes, which I creatively turned into "nipple tacos". We started our trek around 8:00 a.m.. Today's elevation gain was relatively gradual, with some ups and downs, leading to Punk Tangga for lunch. We maintained a good pace and enjoyed spectacular views of the Thumsekur and Ama Dumblam mountain peaks. After lunch, it was a challenging three-hour uphill climb on steps to Tengboche Monastery. It felt like the climb would never end, but we finally reached Tengboche, a significant Buddhist monastery perched on a hilltop. As we ascended, there was a sign requesting silence, but upon arriving, we found workers painting woodwork with a Bluetooth speaker playing pop music. The monastery was very colorful. We saw yaks adorned with hair and bells being led into the monastery, likely after grazing. We spent about an hour there. Neerav had a knee issue, so we sat and had tea instead of going inside. The walk down to Molingo was beautiful, with the leaves displaying golden yellow hues. Anil guided us through the forest, passing Buddhist monuments (always keeping them to our left, as per tradition) for good luck. We arrived at the Good Luck Hotel in Molingo, which was nice but a bit Spartan. The weather was starting to get cold.
Day 9: Saturday, October 12th - Trekking to Dingboche
We started our day with breakfast at 7:30 a.m. before trekking from Millingo to Dingboche. I slept much better the previous night and felt I had a better handle on the temperature. The trek offered beautiful views of Ama Dublam and Kangtega. We continued through a rhododendron forest to Pangboche, where we stopped for a coffee break. We then proceeded to Shomare (4,010m) for lunch. After lunch, we crossed the Imja Khola river and continued uphill, reaching about 13,000 ft, where we crossed the tree line, and the landscape transitioned to brush. We walked across what appeared to be a mostly flat glacier plain and finally reached Dingboche (4,410m). We stayed at another "Good Luck" hotel, which was again a bit Spartan but comfortable, suggesting it might be part of a chain. I hoped for a good night's sleep, as the plan for the next day was an acclimatization hike up to 5,000m to Nangkartshang Peak (5,089m), offering views of Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, and Island Peak, a hike of about three hours up and down.
Day 10: Sunday, October 13th - Acclimatization Hike to Nangkartshang Peak
The plan for our acclimatization hike from Dingboche to Nangkartshang Peak was to hike uphill for about a mile and then return before lunch. The weather was cold but clear and sunny. The temperature was right around freezing, and it had been cold at night, but my 0° sleeping bag kept me very comfortable. I even did some laundry, hoping it would dry despite the cold (it ended up being either dry or frozen). I woke up around 5:45 a.m., feeling well-rested thanks to taking Claritin the previous night, which helped me breathe through my nose. We left for the day hike around 8:30 a.m.. The views were spectacular, with beautiful vistas of Arakam Cholatse to the east. Hiking up to 15,500 ft, we glimpsed the glacier lake Chola Tsho to the south and saw Thamserku and Kangtege to the south, along with views of Ama Dablam and other mountains. We reached the point where Sabine intended us to turn back, but I felt good and wanted to continue for better scenery. Only Rashim and Son also wanted to go further, so Anil accompanied us. We aimed to climb for another 30 minutes, reaching 14,880 ft according to my watch. We decided to keep going, reaching a point with prayer flags and then continuing further to see Chola Lake and more mountain details. We eventually came down, had lunch, and planned to visit the Cafe 4410 bakery and coffee shop at 3:00 p.m.. At the cafe, we met Neerav, Son and Rasheen. The cafe was really nice, casual, cozy, and warm. We found a table and ordered a flat white coffee and a chocolate banana cake. The coffee was fantastic, possibly the best I'd ever had. It was surprising to find such a great place in the middle of nowhere, and they were even showing the movie Everest. We met an English couple, Kieran and Sam, who were on an 8-month round-the-world journey that was initially planned before the pandemic. After getting married and Kieran finishing his medical degree, they quit their jobs to travel. They were also documenting their journey on a blog and even interviewed us.
Day 11: Monday, October 14th - Trekking to Lobuche
We woke up early and packed our bags to have some time for taking pictures in the morning. We captured some shots trying to frame the stupas with Ama Dablam in the background. After a breakfast of porridge and apples, we left at 8:00 a.m., climbing up the hill where I took more photos along the Lobuche Khola River. This was a flat glacier valley with rubble, mossy dirt, and scrub brush. We stopped for lunch at Thukla (Tokla) and then began the ascent up Thukla Pass, where there is a memorial for climbers who have died on these mountains. Having recently read Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer, seeing these monuments for the people mentioned in the book had a particular resonance. I felt quite tired upon reaching our hotel in Lobuche at 2:00 p.m. and took a nap, waking up around 5:00 p.m. to capture photos of the sunset on the mountain peaks.
Day 12: Tuesday, October 15th - Lobuche to Everest Base Camp and Gorak Shep
Today was a long and significant day, the pinnacle of the trip: heading to Everest Base Camp and then back to Gorak Shep, with an optional trip to Kala Patthar planned. We hadn't had a clear view of Everest since Namche Bazaar. The plan was to trek to Gorak Shep, drop off extra gear, continue to Everest Base Camp, and then return to Gorak Shep. We also hoped to hike up Kala Patthar for views, although Everest itself isn't visible from Gorak Shep. The first real view of Everest would be on the way to EBC, as it's blocked by Nuptse and Lhotse while walking up the Khumbu Glacier Valley. However, between Nuptse and Lhotse, we had great views of Nuptse and Pumori. We started our trek from Lobuche around 6:30 a.m., a little later than planned but still early. The expected time to Gorak Shep was about 3 hours, and our group, including Neerav, Son, and me, made it in two groups, with Anil. Our immediate goal was to have tea, rest, and then proceed to EBC. The trek to EBC from Gorak Shep is also about 3 hours, following the Khumbu Glacier. The weather was good for trekking, although very sunny, so I made sure to wear sunscreen, my balaclava, and a hat. We packed light to move quickly. The trail was dry, rocky, and dusty, mostly single track, which could cause congestion with other trekkers. We reached Everest Base Camp in about 3 hours. At first, it was underwhelming – just rocks with a broken sign and a stone spray-painted "Everest Base Camp". However, the view of Everest was excellent, clear and sunny, even though it was nestled between Lhotse and Nuptse. It was still the best view of Everest we had seen on the trip so far. Manoj Suvarna arrived while we were taking pictures, and we all posed together on the rock before heading back to Gorak Shep.
The plan was to return to Gorak Shep, have lunch, and then hike up Kala Patthar around 4:30 p.m. to catch the sunset view of Everest around 5:30 p.m.. We arrived back in Gorak Shep exhausted. We encountered Sarah and Shannon, who were not doing well; Shannon had altitude-related issues and was coughing up blood, while Sarah had experienced dangerously low blood oxygen levels a few days prior. Despite advice that it would be cloudy, we decided to attempt Kala Patthar anyway. It was brutally cold, and since Chris had the room key and was staying back with Sarah and Shannon, I couldn't access my warm clothes. Crossing the glacier bed, the extreme cold made me consider turning back, but Anil encouraged me to continue uphill. We saw some ptarmigans, and the mountains were clear, though Everest was still obscured from our vantage point at that moment (unbeknownst to me, I did capture a good photo of it). Unfortunately, clouds continued to roll in, diminishing our hopes for a clear sunset view. We stayed for a bit of the golden hour before descending. At dinner, Sabine informed us that a helicopter could be arranged for $500 per person. Given the cold and the need to get back for our return flights, we quickly agreed. We had an early start planned to catch the helicopter out. Chris, Sarah, and Shannon were also working to arrange a helicopter due to altitude sickness.
Day 13: Wednesday, October 16th - Helicopter Evacuation
We woke up at 5:00 a.m., packed, and headed to the helipad. Three of us, along with another couple from Himalayan Wonders, David and Molly (who was also quite sick), waited in the dark and cold for the helicopter to arrive. We were among the first there.
The first helicopter landed around 6:45 a.m., taking David and Molly. Subsequent helicopters arrived every 15 minutes, each taking two people due to the thin air at Gorak Shep. Sarah and Shannon were next to leave. We waited at the helipad, uncertain of the prioritization. Around 8:00 a.m., Manoj and Neerav lifted off. Chris and I were the last of our group to depart from Gorak Shep.
Our helicopter flew down to Pheriche, where Manoj and Neerav switched to another helicopter that continued down the river valley to Lukla, effectively retracing our trek from the air, passing by Tengboche, Namche Bazaar, and Phakding. In Lukla, we met up with Shannon and Sarah and another representative from Himalayan Wonders, Pemba (different from our main guide). This Pemba insisted we leave our duffel bags at the airport and took us to the same tea house we had visited at the start of our trek, with the expectation of a quick helicopter flight to Kathmandu.
However, we faced significant problems due to weather. We waited at the tea house, observing a steady stream of planes and helicopters until the weather started to get cloudy, and planes stopped taking off and landing. Even helicopter activity slowed down, leading to the realization that we might be stuck in Lukla overnight. We learned that bad weather had also delayed and canceled flights out of Ramchep (likely Rumjatar or a similar location) for several days, leaving almost a thousand people stranded there who were now being prioritized for flights out of Lukla to start their treks.
As hopes of leaving that day faded, we focused on finding accommodation for the night. Around 3:34 p.m., David received a call from Pemba about a helicopter with four available seats, requiring an hour's walk to another helipad in Chaurikharka . Neerav and I decided to take this opportunity as our international flights were scheduled for October 17th, while Manoj's was on the 18th.
The four of us (Molly, David, Neerav, and I) were led by Pemba along the airport fence towards the Chaurikharka helipad. During our jog, Pemba received another call, redirecting us to a closer landing spot about 20 minutes away, requiring us to double back and run through town. We met up with porters carrying our duffles and, guided by Pemba and an airport official, continued running down a trekking trail, passing other hikers. We finally reached a field where a helicopter landed. After the previous passengers disembarked and our duffles were loaded, we got on the helicopter. I tipped and thanked Pemba for his help in arranging our transport. The source doesn't explicitly detail our arrival in Kathmandu in this section, but successfully boarding the helicopter out of Lukla was our means of finally reaching Kathmandu after the significant weather disruptions.
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